Cooker Hoods - Faults And Fixes
This we only usually hear of when a cooker hood is newly installed, it's rare to get this on hoods that have been in a while as, if the motor fails then it will fail completely.
If you get poor airflow or extraction from your cooker hood it is far more likely to be an issue with the your ducting or vent to the outside or a simple case of the filters being blocked. Make sure you have installed the correct size ducting kit? 125mm circular ducting is now the normal size for all good quality cooker hoods however we highly recommend using 150mm circular ducting where possible. Plastic rigid ducting can be used but please make sure it is of the same equivalent as circular ducting. Our ducting equivalents are:
- 125mm circular ducting = 150mm x 70mm plastic rigid ducting
- 150mm circular ducting = 220mm x 90mm plastic rigid ducting
Please make sure the ducting is not reduced to no less than 125mm at any point as this will cause back pressure on the motor and will cause the motor to overheat and fail.
This is probably the single most common fault with any cooker hood.
There are several reasons for this, some of which some people really don't like being told about when they find out that they can't have the lights on the cooker hood on all the time, which you can't or at least shouldn't. Always use a 3amp fuse and never a 13amp fuse on any cooker hood as this can cause the lights to fail. The reason is that if you install your cooker hood on a 13amp fuse, the PCB board can fail instead of the lights as there will be too much power going through the circuit board.
If problems persist check the mains voltage supply as, if that's not quite right it can give you issues with bulbs blowing prematurely as well as issues with the control module if your cooker hood has an electronic control on it.
Check the lamp-holders to see if they have poor contact with the actual bulb it can cause the bulb to pop.
The last resort is the control switch or control module for the cooker hood itself. Usually the lamps are controlled on a separate circuit within this so that they can be switch on and off without the motor having to be on, if that particular circuit fails for some reason then the lights will not work.
If you run the cooker hood lights all the time especially simply for the effect, then the chances are that you will burn the plastic holders or clips that hold the lamp glass in place. It can fall down and smash on your hob or cooker. If the bulbs weren't switched on for extended periods beyond what the hood was designed for then it's not a problem.
Replacing switches and motors is relatively easy but must be done by a competent person, we highly recommend using a fully qualified electrician. Please click on the video links below to watch how to replace our most common switches and motors.Although these short videos are a guide only its recommended that you seek our professional advise using the online form.
We supply all our cooker hood spare parts that are available but, in order to ensure that you get the correct spare part for your cooker hood it is absolutely essential that you have the model number of your cooker hood and the serial number at the very least.
If you can't find it or aren't sure please ask, it's better to do that than get the wrong parts.
Do not order merely off a photograph as a lot of cooker hood spares all look the same, especially the ones that you are liable to need like motors, control boards, lamp holders and filters.
The only standard parts are universal cooker hood filters, both grease and carbon filters and bulbs. Beyond that, they are by model and serial numbers only.